Off again I travel, from one city to the next. All it took was a 2 hour and 30 minute bus ride from Lisbon and finally I have arrived.
Coimbra was all warm like honey with its late afternoon sky. I arrived tired and very much hungry. A local resto far from the center was recommended by this guy at the hostel reception. It took me close to forever to locate it and when I did, I was rewarded with the best meal I’ve consumed in Portugal, so far.
There was this old lady who spoke to me in slow Portuguese, trying to explain the food on their non-english menu, she was so sweet! I ordered me some meat which was deliciously filling and quite cheap. The dinner was beef with mushroom sauce, rice, side salad and potatoes which made me and my tummy ve-ry happy.
I was told that the Fado of Coimbra is quite unique, as it is exclusively sang only by men and considered more refined than that of Lisbon.
The Fado of Coimbra was developed by university students who arrived in the city from Lisbon and Porto, bringing with them their guitars and a different way of singing. They found Fado the ideal vehicle for preserving the memories of student life, singing about unrequited love and nights spent without sleep, or serenading their sweethearts from under the window.
In fact, it is only the males in the student population who sing Fado, dressed in their traditional academic costume of black suits and thick gowns.
Coimbra at night was all bathed in warm orange glow. I wandered around its winding alleys, and wallowed in its melancholic beauty. Since the city is perched on a hill, walking up and down, put my feet in misery.